Why do Tomato Plants Split?

Why do Tomato Plants Crack?

A tomato crack (or split) is caused by the tomato plant absorbing water too quickly.  The inside expands from the water absorption but skin can’t stretch to accommodate the extra fluid.  So, the skin splits and heals up.

This can happen in a few different scenario:

1.  You forget to water regularly and the soil gets to dry.  Then you finally remember and water a lot to make up for it or it rains.  Then the plant drinks up the water super fast and the skins split.  Whoops!

2.  Your water regularly (maybe once a day after work) but it is extremely hot out.  The soil moister evaporates during the day and the plants dry out.  When you     get home from work and water, he plants absorb the water too quickly and the tomatoes split.

3.  Your soil is too sandy and does not have enough organic matter to hold water.  So, the plants dry and the next time it rains the plans absorb water too quickly and the tomatoes split.

Can you eat tomatoes with splits?

       Of course you can eat tomatoes with splits.  You should pick them as soon as possible.  They don’t seem to last as long due to the weakness in the protective skin.  Just cut the affected area and enjoy.

How can you prevent the tomato splits?

1.  Maintain soil moisture by watering frequently and deeply

-This will decrease the chances of rain splitting your tomatoes

2.  Maintain soil moisture covering the soil with mulch

-This will prevent the water from evaporating

3.  Choose more resistant varieties if you live in a hot climate

4.  Cover the soil with Veggie Booster Mulch 

-This will keep the moisture in the soil consistent,

-Side benefits:  reduce weeding time, reflect more vital red light   wavelengths to the plant, reduce fruit rotting on the

ground and discourage pests

5.  Make a Crop Cover (row cover fabric) jacket for your tomato plants

-This can protect from drying winds and harsh sun and keep moisture in

-Side benefits: protect from pests, fungi, and bacteria

6.  Don’t over fertilize to prevent the plant from growing too quickly

Make a Homemade Mosquito Trap With Ingredients You Already Have

The reason that mosquitoes are attracted to humans is because they want to suck our blood.  The way that they find us is by detecting the Co2 that we breathe out.  That is why this mosquito trap works so well.  It uses Co2 for bait. Mwa Ha Ha!

1st Gather your Supplies

  • 1 2 liter soda bottle
  • Sharp knife
  • Black paper
  • Tape
  • Candy thermometer

2nd Cut the top off the soda bottle and invert it

Cut the top off right at the place before it starts to narrow.  This is important.  If you cut it too high the top can fall inside the bottom.  Once you cut the top off, turn it over and place the spout down in the bottom half.  Now, tape the seam with any tape that you have.  Clear looks the neatest.

3rd Make a simple sugar syrup

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 cup water
  • 2 cups cool water
  • 1 tsp. active dry yeast

Directions:

  • Bring on cup of water to a good boil.
  • Pour the sugar into the boiling water. (Careful)
  • Once you can see the sugar is dissolved completely, take the pan off the heat.
  • Stir in two cups of cold water.  Make sure that you stir it completely.
  • Let the solution cool down to 90 degrees F
  • Add 1 teaspoon active dry yeast, you don’t have to mix.
  • Pour the syrup into the bottle using the inverted top like a funnel.
  • The fermenting yeast will release carbon dioxide. Put black paper around the bottle since mosquitoes like dark places and carbon dioxide. This mosquito trap will then start working.  You can decorate the paper if you want to make it look cute.

TIPS: Put the trap in a dark and humid place, near by where you and your family hang out, for 2 weeks. You’ll see the effect. You’ll have to replace the sugar water + yeast solution every 2 weeks.

Growing Your Own Food is Like Printing Money

By Huffington Post

Ron Finley is a successful clothing designer and artist from Los Angeles whose life got a little dirtier when he realized something strange about his neighborhood.

He found that South Central, Los Angeles was overwhelmingly filled with “Liquor stores. Fast food. Vacant lots,” but had no great place to get fresh, affordable produce. “People are losing their homes, they’re hungry, they’re unemployed, and this area is so underserved with nutritional food.” Finley was quoted as saying.

Since he’d just taken a course on gardening at the Natural History Museum, he decided to put his newfound knowledge to good use and planted a garden in a small strip of grass by his house with the help of his teacher, Florence Nishida and some friends.

Even though Finley used a small plot of land, about 10 feet wide, 150 feet long, the city still gave him a citation, which eventually turned into a warrant. His garden, filled with tomatoes, peppers and chard, celery, kale and herbs, had been deemed illegal.

Luckily with the help of LA Green Grounds, a charity he co-founded to help spread gardens throughout Los Angeles, Finley managed to overcome the citation, with the additional encouragement of his councilman, Herb Wesson. LA Green Grounds continues to help communities acquire gardening skills and grow their own produce, “And it always amazes me how planting a bunch of seeds or plants really can change someone’s life as they watch it grow, and then harvest it. I’ve seen people light up and literally change before my eyes.” Finley explains.

“Growing your own food is like printing your own money,” Finley said in his TED talk. He has educated his community in the importance of gardening as a sustainable, cost-effective and healthy activity in the hopes the can help turn these “food deserts” into “food forests.”

Finley perfectly sums up the significance of his gardening movement with this very promising observation: “If kids grow kale, kids eat kale!”

Growing your own food is like printing money

Growing your own food is like printing money

Source Link: http://www.foodmatters.tv/articles-1/growing-your-own-food-is-like-printing-your-own-money-video

Reflective Mulches Boost Fruit Size, Color and Yields

08/01/2011

By Renee Stern, Contributing Editor

Reflective materials that bounce additional sunlight up into tree canopies from the orchard floor can pay off in higher yields, bigger sizes, and better and more evenly colored fruit.

Tests over the past eight years with reflective fabrics placed in drive rows produced similar results in apples, cherries, pears, peaches and nectarines, says Tory Schmidt, a research associate with the Washington Tree Fruit Research Commission in Wenatchee.

“I was a little surprised at how consistently effective they’ve been at those three qualities,” Schmidt says.

‘Pretty substantial’ results

Results include a “pretty substantial” impact in size, fruit set and yield. Yields in test plots, for example, have run up to 20 percent to 25 percent higher, he says. Mylar foils used in the tests improved only fruit color.

Higher yields, larger fruit and better color “all put money back in the grower’s pocket,” Schmidt says.

While reflective materials so far are more common in Western orchards, the extra light also is crucial for Michigan cherry growers using high tunnel systems with blush varieties.

“We’re already light-limited [without high tunnels] so every little bit helps,” says Greg Lang, professor of horticulture at Michigan State University in East Lansing.

Adding to the problem, the plastic used in high tunnels partly blocks ultraviolet light.

And without UV light, only the topmost layer of Rainiers and other high-value blush cherries achieve full color. The rest, he says, stay pale yellow.

Convincing results in blush cherries

Lang hasn’t found funding for a full range of controlled experiments with the reflective materials.

But he’s done enough preliminary work with three types—Extenday reflective fabric, Mylar foil and a white weed barrier fabric—to show convincing results with blush cherries.

The jury is still out for the region’s growers with Bings and other sweet red varieties, or for those not using high tunnels, he says.

Any added expense requires careful consideration.

Choices, choices, choices

Which reflective material to use depends on your objectives for a particular block, says Jonathan Toye, founder and chief executive officer of Extenday USA Inc.

The company, based in Yakima, Wash., offers 10 versions of its reflective fabric, varying in weight, durability, reflectivity and weave construction.

Growers’ objectives also affect how they use the material, when they deploy it and whether they shift it later in the growing season to aid a different crop, Toye says. “Think about it as a management tool,” he says.

Washington Fruit & Produce Co. in Yakima, Wash., has used Extenday since 2005, mainly in Gala apple blocks. There, the company sees not only color improvements but also up to a 10 percent increase in yield, says orchard manager Dan Plath.

“If [color] was the only reason it wouldn’t justify the expense,” he says.

For color alone, Mylar foils suffice, he says. The company chooses that material for its older Fuji and Gala varieties.

“We have to work harder on those to get color, so there’s a lot of room for improvement,” he says. “But the newer generations [of those varieties] are where we’re getting 70 to 80 percent premium [fruit].”

If improving fruit color is your main objective, Schmidt says, you can wait until a few weeks before harvest to install reflective foils or fabrics. Laying out the material at bloom helps increase cell division to ultimately boost fruit size and yield.

Hold off early deployment until after any severe frost forecasts, Plath says.

Reflective materials substantially reduce ground warming from spring sunlight, which can translate into a degree or two drop in nighttime orchard temperatures—a potentially crucial difference for frost protection.

Mylar foils cost less up front, Schmidt says, but are less durable and must be replaced after a single season, increasing disposal costs.

Sturdier materials such as Extenday represent a bigger initial investment, but can be used for five or six years before replacement.

And unlike the foils, they also can stand up to being rolled up and moved to a new location partway through the growing season, he says.

Many growers take advantage of that sturdiness, placing the fabric strips in apple blocks early in the season to boost cell division, then transferring them to cherry orchards before harvest.

After finishing up cherries, they return the fabric to apple orchards to boost fruit color, he says.

“The benefits more than pay for all that moving around,” Schmidt says. Growers get three to four uses each year out of the same product rather than investing in three times as much reflective material.

The Extenday fabrics work best raised slightly from the ground to allow air flow, he says. Shock cords secure the material during use.

Plath recommends doubling up shock cords on the windward side of any block, a lesson learned from hard experience. A wind storm blew fabric strips up into tree rows like sails, breaking trees at bud unions.

But avoid tightening the cords too much, he says. The material needs some give, especially to handle equipment traffic.

Careful handling and storage during the off-season—ideally rolled up under a tarp out of the way—will help increase its life, Schmidt says.

Reflective material can help make “the best blocks better,” he says. But it’s not a rescue product. “It may marginally help shaded, struggling blocks, but there has to be light reaching the ground for it to be effective.”

 

For information regarding American Nettings and Fabric’s mulch, please see Veggie Mulch

More about American Nettings

About American Nettings

American Nettings & Fabric supplies a full complement of ‘American Made’  bird netting, deer fencing, trellis netting, shade cloth, crop cover, landscape fabric, and much more for the lawn & garden and horticultural markets. Whether you’re looking for plastic mesh to use as a bird repellent or deer-proof fencing, we have the solutions and products you need. Our main objective is to provide quality product and solutions in nettings and fabric to commercial agriculture as well as provide retail packages for wholesale and retail.
We do a great deal of business providing a variety of netting solutions to Vineyards. We supply netting for full vineyard enclosures as well as side netting and multi row netting.
The company was founded in 1983 as a family run operation based on high standards of integrity and quality. Although the company has grown and now holds national and international markets the company is still run as a family operation based on good old fashion business morals.
Whether you have a commercial agriculture operation or a home garden addition, we have solutions for you that will save you time and money.

Specialties

Vineyard Netting solutions, Agricultural netting and fabric solutions, Wholesaling packaged netting and fabric for home gardening, Online retail sales of packaged netting and fabric for the home gardener

  • Headquarters

    7042 Portal Way Bldg N1 Ferndale,Wa 98248 United States

  • Website

    https://www.americannettings.com/

  • Industry

    Farming

  • Type

    Sole Proprietorship

  • Company Size

    11-50 employees

  • Founded

    1985

Top Ten Uses for Crop Cover (Row Cover)

Top Ten Uses for Crop Cover:

1.  Protect your plants from frost

2.  Create a tent enclosure over a trellis row

3.  Create a tunnel cover over a veggie row

4.  Protect vulnerable starts from wind in dry windy areas

5.  Create a floating crop cover that will rise up as your plant grows

6.  Germinate seeds in cooler weather and/or decrease germination time

7.  Shade plants from harsh sun

8.  Protect veggie plants from pest insects

9.  Increase the length of growing season

10. Protect young crops from birds

 

Crop Cover (Row Cover) is a Gardener’s Best Friend

Crop Cover (Row Cover) is a Gardener’s Best Friend

            In Horticulture, row cover (or Crop Cover) is any material used to cover plants as a protective shield primarily against cold and frost.  It is also used to protect against wind, rain, snow, sun, bird and insect damage.  American Nettings’ row cover is called Crop Cover, not to be confused with cover crops, which are vegetative crops that are planted to protect soil from wind and water erosion in between planting of a cash crop.  Crop Cover is know by many different names including: frost cover, row cover, frost blanket, frost protection, reemay, garden fabric, non-woven garden fabric, spun-bonded fabric, over-winter fabric, plastic row cover, plastic mulch, field cover, and floating row cover.

Crop Cover acts as a protective greenhouse that keeps plants warm and guards against frosts, while allowing sunlight and moisture to pass through.  This creates all the perfect conditions to increase the growth of your plants and produce bigger, better and earlier crop yields.  There are many different types of Crop Cover.  The three main Crop Covers (or row covers) that we will discuss are non-woven spun-bonded fabrics, plastic row covers, ribbon-knitted shade covers.

Non-woven Spun-bonded Fabrics:

The most commonly used Crop Cover is the non-woven spun-bonded fabric. Fabric Crop Covers are lightweight blankets made of spun-bonded polypropylene which is sunlight, rain and air-permeable.  American Nettings carries a lightweight and a medium weight crop cover.

The Medium crop cover weighs .9oz/yd (30gm).  It has a 70% light transmission and is UV Stable.  It protects from frosts down to 26°F and has a life expectancy of 2 years.  It’s great for extending the growing season by planting early in the spring and continuing to grow and produce late into the fall.  They also makes and excellent wind break for young transplants.  This row cover is ideal for over-wintering strawberries, herbs, small fruits, tender landscape plants and just about any perennial.

The Lightweight spun-bonded crop cover weighs .5oz/yd (17gm).  It has a light transmission of 85% and protects from frost down to 28°F.  Its life expectancy is 1 year.  The light weight crop cover, also know as floating row cover, is great for promoting seed germination.  Lightweight crop cover can be used all season long to defend some crops such as carrots or onions against birds, insects, harsh rain and light hail.  Other crops that require germination such as squash and tomatoes should be uncovered as soon as they start to flower.  In hot climates Crop cover may have to be removed to prevent excessive heat build up.  Lightweight can be double layered in the spring to have the same effects as the medium wt and then a layer can be removed when it warms up.

Non-woven Spunbonded Fabric

Non-woven Spunbonded Fabric

Plastic row covers: 

Plastic row cover is made out of clear plastic (polyethylene).  This type of Crop cover must be carefully managed because it is much less forgiving and more labor intensive then fabric covers.  Temperatures under plastic can be as much as 30° higher then the outside air.  You can Vent them on warm days and close them at night and on cold days.  Plastic row covers that are slitted don’t require venting but you also can’t close them up at night.  For those gardeners that live in Warmer Southern areas can use Colored or shaded plastic.  The coloring blocks out some of the sunlight, reducing the heat inside the tunnel.   Plastic cover should be suspended over the plant and not touching the delicate foliage

Plastic crop cover

Plastic crop cover

Ribbon-knitted Shade Cover: 

Knitted shade cover is made from High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) and is a knitted fabric. It is strong and can last up to 8 years. This material comes in different shade effects from 20% to 90%.  When used as a row cover less shade effect is desirable.  If there is too much shade the plants will grow slowly. This product is forgiving in that it allows natural airflow and rain and water penetration unlike plastic. It also protects from light frosts, strong winds and hail. It will not hold as much heat in as the fabric cover but it will allow excess heat to vent better then plastic.  Works great for warmer areas that are more concerned with protecting plants from sun rather the protecting plants from cold.

Ribbon knitted shade

Ribbon knitted shade

Crop Cover is Easy to Use:

Crop Cover is so versatile. The possibilities are endless.  A whole book could be filled with technique for using Crop Cover.  Lets talk about three easy ways to use crop cover in the garden.  One way is to create a Crop Cover tunnel over rows.  The Second technique is to drape Crop Cover over a trellis row.  The third way is to use crop cover as a floating row cover.

A protective tunnel formed with row cover is sometimes called a cloche. More often, a cloche, or bell jar, refers to a covering made of glass or plastic, placed over individual plants to provide similar protection as row cover.  You can make the tunnel supports with Just about any material such as 9-gauge wire, rebar and wood.  My favorite hoop material is 1” PVC pipe.  It’s strong, lightweight, inexpensive and easy to get.  Pound a 2’ piece of rebar 1’ in the ground and leave 1’ sticking out on either side of the row.  Slide one end of the PVC pipe over one rebar.  Then bend and push the other side of the PVC over the top of the other rebar.  Voilà, You have your first hoop.  Repeat this process every couple of feet all the way down the row.  Suspend the Crop Cover over the hoops and you have a tunnel.

Crop Cover Tunnel

Crop Cover Tunnel

Drape Crop Cover Over a Trellis Row:

Urban gardeners to grow on trellis rows in order to produce more in small spaces and to get higher yields per plant then growing on the ground.  It just so happens that trellis row is perfect for draping Crop Cover over.  You don’t have to do any extra work. The trellis itself becomes the framework for the perfect little microenvironment under the Crop Cover.  Drape the Crop Cover over the top wire of the trellis and pin the bottoms o the ground like a tent formation.  Easy as Pie.

crop cover trellis row

crop cover draped over trellis row

Floating Row Cover:

The first two techniques are great but I’m a big fan of keeping things simple and over the years I have come to realize that there is always stupidly simple technique for doing just about anything.  For Crop Cover this technique is called floating row cover.  You can cover newly seeded beds or transplants with light to medium weight fabric crop cover.  Leave plenty of slack in the material to allow for growth.  Seal and secure the edges and leave it alone.  The plants will grow and lift the crop cover up with them as the go.  That’s what I call low maintenance.  There is no need for elaborate structures or hoops, which leaves more time for the good stuff in life.

crop cover directly over plants with no supports

crop cover directly over plants with no supports

 Secure the Edges:

No matter which technique you use you must secure the edges of the Crop cover in order to seal in the warmth and moister as well as to seal out the sneaky birds and insects.   Bury the edges to make a seal.  Then you must secure the edges from being blown up by the wind or burrowed up by pests.  You can use any number of materials that you have lying around the house such as brick, rocks, 2×4 and old tires.  You get the drift.  Be careful because rock with sharp edges can tear the fabric and let unwanted guests in.  One really clever way that I have seen is to fill old water bottles with water and lay them around the edges of your fabric.  My favorite way technique is to pin down the fabric with plastic fabric pins from American Nettings.  The pins have a loop handle on top, which makes it so easy to push them in and take them out when you need to work with your plants.  You can use them year after year and they are not very expensive.  They also help your garden look neat and tidy verses looking like a bunch of debris blew in on a windy day.

Handling Crop Covers (row cover)
Working with fabric row covers may seem awkward at first.  Lightweight fabric tends to blow around while you’re putting it in place on windy days. The fabric can also tears easily on sharp edges.  But, with a little time you will get the hang of it.  Here are a few tips:

  • The fabric can be cut with scissors to fit over rows or used as-is for wide-row plantings.
  • You can purchase Crop cover in small convenient pieces or you can buy large roll and continue to cut off of that same roll year after year.
  • At the end of the season, shake the covers to loosen dirt and debris, and make sure they’re dry before you put them away. Fold or roll them up and store them in a clean dry place
  • Save all the cut or torn pieces of cover, cut them up into small pieces for patching larger sections of cover that have small holes. You can use waxed dental floss to sew them.

Conclusion:

It’s rare to find gardeners that are satisfied with the length of the growing season.  Luckily, Crop cover can provide a solution for the irresistible urge to go out and start planting as soon as possible.  Crop Cover fabric is a good tool for all gardeners because it is versatile and has an extremely low cost and huge benefits. Spun-bonded Crop Cover Fabric is the favorite choice.  They create a barrier that keeps the wind, cold and pests out, while allowing water, air, sunlight and soluble fertilizers to pass through. Wow!  They can increase your production as much as 25% while decreasing your labor and stress.  That’s why the commercial growers use it so much.

Worms for Your Garden & Fishing

CALLING ALL WORMS…

NO MORE STAYING UP ALL NIGHT WITH A FLASH LIGHT & A GARDEN HOSE!

 

No more sleepless nights.  I have stayed up all night with a flashlight and a garden hose.  I can just remember waiting for those tricky worms to pop up out of the ground.  I had to be fast because the second I shined my flash light on them they would try and get away.  They were the only things standing in the way of me landing the big fish at the lake.  So when I came across this technique, that I am about to describe to you, I had to laugh at my self for doing it the hard way all these years.

This technique is so easy and simple it should be illegal.  All you have to do is find an area with moist soft dirt.  Try under a log or a board that has been sitting in the same place for a while.  Push a 12 to 18” long stick about a quarter of the way into the ground.  Rub another stick against it like you are trying to start a fire.  Do this for about 2 to 5 minutes and you should see tons of worms popping up to the surface.

If you are going fishing, just start grabbing and tossing them into a container and be on your way.  But, if you thought worms were only good for fishing then think again.  You can do this in several locations in your garden to summon more worms to work the soil and take advantage of all the benefits that worms can bring to growing your own food.

Worms do all sorts of things in the soil that help make soil perfect for growing healthy food.  There is nothing like having around 500,000 farm hands, per acre of soil, to work for free.  These little farm hands break down organic matter by eating and burrowing there way through the soil.  As they eat they leave behind castings that are an excellent fertilizer.  As they burrow they leave behind tunnels that make room for air and water to be held and made available to plant roots.  All the while they are mixing organic matter such as leaves and grass at the surface with the soil below.

Using Natural Burlap for Carrot Germination

Using Natural Burlap for Carrot Germination

Carrots can be a big early spring headache. In cool weather, they take forever to germinate, 2 or 3 weeks, and by that time, the chance of weed competition is pretty good, and just about anything growing around the tiny seedlings makes excruciatingly time-consuming surgical hand weeding a necessity. What to do?  Many people use woven landscape fabric. The fabric will heat up the soil and speed up germination while keeping weeds down. The problem is the germination window is very tiny.  If you get busy and wait a few hours or a day too long the little seedlings emerge and get toasted from the very same heat that gave them life. If you don’t enjoy this game of roulette then you should try using natural burlap.  The burlap will heat up the soil and speed up germination as soon as 7 days.  It also retains the perfect amount of moisture in its fibers and feeds it to the soil all day long.  The Fabric is very permeable and will let in just the right amount of light and air while releasing excess heat.

Now, all you have to do is get to work!  Here is how to plant carrots in 10 easy steps:

1.  Go to www.americannettings.com and buy a roll of Natural Burlap.While you’re at it, check out the Trellis Netting.  I love growing everything on trellis as you can guess from my previous blog posts.  You will get your order in about 4 days.

2.  Choose a site that gets full sun (carrots will tolerate light shade but won’t do as well). Soil should be light, with a pH of 5.8 to 6.8

3.  Dig to a depth of at least 12 inches, and remove all traces of rocks and other debris – even a small twig could injure a carrot growing tip, stunting the root or making it fork.

4.  Add plenty of organic matter; it will lighten heavy soils and increase the moisture retention of sandy ones. Carrots grow sweeter and less fibrous in soil that remains moist.

5.  Sow carrot seeds directly about two to three weeks before the last expected frost in cool regions; in warm climates, you can plant in fall, winter or spring.

6.  Make early sowings shallow to capture warmth from the sun; sprinkle the seeds on the soil surface, tamp them gently and cover them with a thin layer of finely sifted compost. If planting later, when the soil has warmed up, plant seeds between 1/4 and 1/2 inch deep.

7.  Now roll out two layers of natural burlap over the seeds and gently water down the burlap.

8.  When the seeds germinate you can gently roll off the burlap and let them bask in the sun.  If you wait too long to take the burlap off, the seedlings will begin to come up though the burlap.  Don’t be alarmed. Gently lift the fabric off and the seedlings should pop out the bottom.  However, weeds that have begun to grow will be pulled out. Yay!

9.  Thin seedlings before the tops become entwined: Either clip off the greens with scissors, or pull the roots very gently from the ground so you don’t disturb the remaining plants. Allow 3 to 4 inches between carrots, depending on the variety (check the seed packet for details).

10.  Begin harvesting carrots when they’ve turned deep orange.

One of my fondest memories, as a child, is picking carrots out of my mom’s beautiful garden.  I was only about 3 or 4 so I don’t remember much.  But, I have a clear recollection of pushing my big Yellow Tonka Dump truck (big to a toddler) from the front porch all the way around the house and into this giant jungle of a garden.  While, she was picking tomatoes, I was pulling gigantic carrots out of the ground and filling my dump truck with them.  I felt so helpful.  I would then take a load around the house to the porch and come back for another.  Best Day Ever!

American Nettings Press Release

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: February 18th

American Netting is Going to be at the National Hardware Show May 7th-9th 2013

 

Custer, Washington, February 18th.  American Nettings is going to the National Hardware Show on May 7th 2013 and will be there until the 9th.

They are bringing lots of product samples to educate and connect with current customers as well as make new connections.  American Nettings is also looking for new sales reps to cover new territories.

American Nettings & Fabric supplies a full complement of bird netting, deer fencing, trellis netting, shade cloth, crop cover, landscape fabric, and much more for the lawn & garden and horticultural markets. Whether you’re looking for plastic mesh to use as a bird repellent or deer-proof fencing, we have the solutions and products you need. Our main objective is to provide quality product and solutions in netting’s and fabric to commercial agriculture as well as provide retail packages for wholesale and retail.  We do a great deal of business providing a variety of netting solutions to commercial vineyards.  We supply netting for full vineyard enclosures as well as side netting and multi row netting.

The company was founded in 1985 as a family run operation based on high standards of integrity and quality.  Although the company has grown and now holds national and international markets the company is still run as a family operation based on good old fashion business morals.

Whether you have a commercial agriculture operation, a distribution company or a home garden center; we have solutions for you that will save you time money.

 

American Nettings & Fabric Inc.

 

7042 Portal Way Bldg N1, Ferndale, WA

 

1-800-811-7444

 

https://www.americannettings.com

 

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Knitted Bird Netting Enclosure

The following instructions for a Bird and Deer Proof Netting Enclosure were written by one of our dearest customers by the name of Marvin Nuaman.   So thank you Marvin for the great idea sharing.

Knitted Bird Netting Enclosure

 This Garden Bird & Deer proof Cage was constructed by first getting some used well pipe from a well driller, clean & painted it, drove the next size bigger size well pipe (Stakes) into the soil to act as sleeve’s for the net poles (well pipe). Corner & sleeve joints are panted PVC Fittings. Then added 4′ high fence material (for deer & rodent protection) at the base. Then we put American Bird Netting over the top and sides over lapping the fence 1-2′ for a bird proof fit. We used American Netting Clips to attach the netting to the fence for easy assembly and removal each Spring & Fall. We added a modified metal gate from a farm supply house for easy human access. We love it.

One NOTE: This started out as a good neighbor thing. One finding better ways of doing something. We both tried various things. first to keep the deer out. and then the birds. This garden has a Bird side and a deer side. Things escalated with the growing deer population. I decided to cover the whole garden with PVC pipe and stitching small netting together from a local store. Then my neighbor like it so well. he copied me using metal well pipe. The PVC pipe worked ok for 3 seasons but required maintenance and would bend and was a pain. so I took my neighbors idea and improved on it even more especially in the joints and adding real farm gates. One I modified by making it higher and adding bird proof wire and it makes a bird proof fit to the pipe frame (no welding or drilling was done on the gate modification). My neighbor loves it so well he’s modifying his rig this summer.

While we were at it. we moved 5 very established Blue Berry plants, and added 1-10 yard dump truck of 5 & 1 soil mix. Our Raised beds came from used treated decking that my neighbor was rebuilding for his son.

The raised beds really made a big difference in our very healthy crop this year. we were amazed. Even our relocated Blue Berries that had been pruned at least 50% for the transplant gave us a healthy plentiful crop.

 

Watermelon Grows on Trellis Netting

This is a great example of urban gardening using a trellis to grow watermelon. I would use our trellis netting rather then the green cord in the picture because it looks translucent and is less obtrusive. when the watermelons get heavy you can make little hammocks for them out of left over netting so they don’t fall off the vine.

Watermelon Growing Tips

Watermelons use a huge amount of water and will grow up to a pound a day given the right conditions.  One of the better tips for growing watermelon is that if you live in the north, you should start early varieties in the house and plant transplants instead of planting the seed directly into the soil. Watermelons prefer sandy loam soil over others.  Watermelons need a long growing season (at least 80 days) and warm ground for seeds to germinate and grow. Soil should be 70 degrees F or warmer at planting time. Sow seeds 1 inch deep and keep well watered until germination.

To get a jump start in cooler climates, cover the planting area with red veggie booster mulch fabric to warm up the soil and start seeds indoors two or three weeks before they are to be set out in the garden. Don’t start seeds any earlier, because large watermelon seedlings transplant poorly. Plant 3 seeds in 3- or 4-inch peat pots or large cell packs, and thin to the best plant. Sow watermelon seeds 1/2 inch deep. Place in a sunny south-facing window or under lights to germinate. Make sure the area is warm?day and night?ideally 80 degrees F. Use a Seedling Heat Mat if necessary.  Select short-season varieties such as ‘Million Bucks Hybrid’ or ‘Orange Sunshine Hybrid’ if your growing season is less than 90 days.   The Veggie Booster Mulch fabric that was previously mentioned will warm the soil, maintain moisture and keep weeds at bay.  the  fabric is a unique red color that reflect light and makes the plant think that is has competition and should grow faster.  Keeping the watermelon plants warm during the spring is very important.  The best way to do this is to use Crop Cover.  Use a piece that  drapes over the top of your Trellis netting and hangs to the ground on each side.  Pin the edges to the ground with plastic fabric pins.  This will hold the crop cover in place even when its windy.  The pins are easy remove as often as you need to get in and work with your plants.  The crop cover creates a little micro environment that is warm with just the right amount of sunlight and moisture.  the fabric collects and traps the heat of the day so that the plants are warmer at night.  When the weather gets nice you simply take the crop cover fabric off and use it again in the fall when it starts to get cold again.

 

 

Plant the watermelon seeds near the base of the trellis.  Train the watermelon vines up the trellis as they lengthen and grow. Watermelons are not natural climbers, so fix the vines to the trellis with string.Monitor your watermelon plant from time to time to make sure that it is stable. Check hammocks to ensure that they are relieving the pressure off of the vines

        Harvest the watermelons at the usual time. Trellising will not change the growth pattern of your plant, although it can protect the fruit from diseases and pests usually encountered on the ground.

watch this video to lean the easiest way to put up trellis netting for your garden.  You can use this technique for a large garden as in the video or you can use the same technique for just one small row.