Watermelon Grows on Trellis Netting

This is a great example of urban gardening using a trellis to grow watermelon. I would use our trellis netting rather then the green cord in the picture because it looks translucent and is less obtrusive. when the watermelons get heavy you can make little hammocks for them out of left over netting so they don’t fall off the vine.

Watermelon Growing Tips

Watermelons use a huge amount of water and will grow up to a pound a day given the right conditions.  One of the better tips for growing watermelon is that if you live in the north, you should start early varieties in the house and plant transplants instead of planting the seed directly into the soil. Watermelons prefer sandy loam soil over others.  Watermelons need a long growing season (at least 80 days) and warm ground for seeds to germinate and grow. Soil should be 70 degrees F or warmer at planting time. Sow seeds 1 inch deep and keep well watered until germination.

To get a jump start in cooler climates, cover the planting area with red veggie booster mulch fabric to warm up the soil and start seeds indoors two or three weeks before they are to be set out in the garden. Don’t start seeds any earlier, because large watermelon seedlings transplant poorly. Plant 3 seeds in 3- or 4-inch peat pots or large cell packs, and thin to the best plant. Sow watermelon seeds 1/2 inch deep. Place in a sunny south-facing window or under lights to germinate. Make sure the area is warm?day and night?ideally 80 degrees F. Use a Seedling Heat Mat if necessary.  Select short-season varieties such as ‘Million Bucks Hybrid’ or ‘Orange Sunshine Hybrid’ if your growing season is less than 90 days.   The Veggie Booster Mulch fabric that was previously mentioned will warm the soil, maintain moisture and keep weeds at bay.  the  fabric is a unique red color that reflect light and makes the plant think that is has competition and should grow faster.  Keeping the watermelon plants warm during the spring is very important.  The best way to do this is to use Crop Cover.  Use a piece that  drapes over the top of your Trellis netting and hangs to the ground on each side.  Pin the edges to the ground with plastic fabric pins.  This will hold the crop cover in place even when its windy.  The pins are easy remove as often as you need to get in and work with your plants.  The crop cover creates a little micro environment that is warm with just the right amount of sunlight and moisture.  the fabric collects and traps the heat of the day so that the plants are warmer at night.  When the weather gets nice you simply take the crop cover fabric off and use it again in the fall when it starts to get cold again.

 

 

Plant the watermelon seeds near the base of the trellis.  Train the watermelon vines up the trellis as they lengthen and grow. Watermelons are not natural climbers, so fix the vines to the trellis with string.Monitor your watermelon plant from time to time to make sure that it is stable. Check hammocks to ensure that they are relieving the pressure off of the vines

        Harvest the watermelons at the usual time. Trellising will not change the growth pattern of your plant, although it can protect the fruit from diseases and pests usually encountered on the ground.

watch this video to lean the easiest way to put up trellis netting for your garden.  You can use this technique for a large garden as in the video or you can use the same technique for just one small row.

 

 

TOP 10 REASONS WHY GROWING TOMATOES ON TRELLIS NETTING IS FANTASTIC

TOP 10 REASONS WHY GROWING TOMATOES ON TRELLIS NETTING IS FANTASTIC

1.  Easy to install
2. Takes up less space
3.  Makes room for more plants so you can have a bigger harvest
4. More affordable then tomato cages
5. Very beautiful in your garden and Neater more organized looking
6. Easier to prune tomato plant
7. Easier to harvest and you don’t have to bend as much
8. The whole plant gets better sunlight and creates bigger tastier tomatoes
9. Gets your plants off of the ground, allowing for more circulation of air and avoiding foliage and fruit rotting due to excess moisture.
10. Easier to protect from pests

Make Your Garden Gazebo Your New Outdoor Living Room

An outdoor gazebo is a roofed structure-open, latticework, or screened on all sides-that is, according to Webster’s dictionary, “built on a site that provides an attractive view,” and is sometimes used for entertaining or dining. The term gazebo can also apply to a pavilion, a bandstand, a summerhouse, a belvedere, or a cabana, even a vendor’s booth. It is a centuries old concept, the idea of making a comfortable place to relax or entertain outdoors.
Outdoor gazebos come in many shapes, sizes and materials and can be installed to be permanent structures or temporary or seasonal structures. Some types of gazebos are extremely lightweight and portable. Many styles can be bought as do-it-yourself kits.
Your new gazebo may well become your room of choice all summer long once you have designed it for maximum comfort. With any type of gazebo, the decorating options are endless. You can furnish your covered outdoor living area any way you please by installing side panels, curtains, or mosquito netting to keep out the elements and the bugs. You can install electrical wiring to your gazebo for low voltage outdoor lights and iPod speakers. You could purchase a portable patio heater to extend the season. You could create your own spa by installing a hot tub in your gazebo! Your imagination and budget are all that determines how involved your outdoor gazebo can become.
Outdoor gazebos on the market today are made from aluminum, coated steel and iron, wood, vinyl, and resin. They come in a variety of sizes, from quite large (room size) to small trellis like structures big enough only for two. Aluminum gazebos are commonly erected for special occasions or seasonal use, and there are models light and compact enough to take to the beach or use as a vending booth. Aluminum and other metal gazebos are easy to customize and can be a terrific way to create privacy for small urban rooftop or courtyard gardens. The “roofs” of aluminum gazebos are sloped and ideally made of waterproof canvas coated with UV protection.
Consider the idea of creating a stunning greenhouse using a small gazebo made out of pvc resin. You can purchase models that come with clear vinyl sides and a zippered doorway and enough room for shelves. Using a greenhouse like this is a great way to start vegetable and annual plants for an early start to the growing season.
Wrought iron gazebos, and every type of brand new garden accessory claiming to be wrought iron are actually made of other types of metal such as steel or bronze and then coated with a matte black finish. The term “wrought iron is used in a loose way to mean something that is made to resemble “wrought iron” or what we think wrought iron should look like. In reality, wrought iron is not used much today. It is quite heavy and can be very brittle. The only true “wrought Iron” around these days is old and antique, and valuable. The beautiful wrought iron fence surrounding the Mt. Auburn Cemetery in Cambridge, Massachusetts was being stolen at an alarming rate until they were forced to replace parts of the fence with chain link.
Wooden gazebos are probably what most people think of when they picture a gazebo. Wood can be carved, shaped and constructed into the decorative gingerbread gazebos that we associate with Victorian houses and gardens. But really any style, from modern contemporary to Japanese is possible with a wooden structure.
The best woods for outdoor building are Southern yellow pine (Pinus palustris), Northern white cedar (Thuja Occidentalis) and redwood, all American woods that weather beautifully without the need for staining, painting or pressure treating. There are also new products that mix wood particles and polymers to create a wood like material that is almost impervious to weather. A wooden gazebo is more likely to remain as a permanent structure in your garden or landscape and is therefore the best kind of outdoor gazebo to get if you like the idea of using it as a comfortable outdoor living area.

http://www.outdoorlightsandfurniture.com Kate Wilkins lives around Boston, Massachusetts and writes about landscape design and gardening.

Pest Control for Your Vineyard

Protecting your vineyard grapes from the environment is a challenge that takes some cunning. Throughout the growing season you will want to ensure that your grapes are protected from disease as well as from pests like birds and insects, but also deer and other large grazing animals that may roam free where you live.

Fungus and Disease

There are several diseases that can harm the grapes in your vineyard. Some common ones are mildew, fungus and black rot, all forms of fungus and so fungicide is the most common cure. However the right cure is necessary for the right disease. Most disease is recognized by its effect on the vine leaves. Examine the plants in your vineyard regularly and once grapes are visible, inspect those too for signs of decay. For example, small yellow spots with dark brown centers could be signs of phomopsis cane. Generally, leaf discoloration, or spots on the leaves are signs of problems. You might also see a film over the leaf or the berries may show signs of rotting before they are ripened.

Insect Pest Control

Some of the most common insects that affect vineyards and threaten your grape production are moths, leafhoppers and beetles. The Berry Moth lays its eggs directly on the grapes. The young larvae eat their way through the center of your grapes, leaving tell-tale holes. Leafhoppers tend to accumulate on the underside of the vine leaf. Leafhoppers don’t do that much damage unless they become densely populated and then they can damage the crop. Rose chafers and Japanese beetles feed on the grape clusters as they mature on the vine.

You need to be as careful with your remedies as you are in detecting problems with your vineyard grapes, since grape growing is a delicate art. Seek expert advice if you suspect an insect problem. Many experts recommend treatment only when the infestation is severe. Vines can often withstand mild infestations.

Animal Pest Control

Perhaps the most serious threat for most grape growers are the birds. A flock of birds can wreak serious havoc on the small harvest of a hobbyist’s vineyard. The best protection against damage from birds is a physical barrier between the crop and the outside world. Netting will let in light and moisture, and allow the air to circulate around the grapes while protecting them from birds and other animals. Because of the way vines tend to grow along a trellis, it is a relatively easy project to install nets to protect your grapes. Make sure the nets are high enough that the birds can’t get to the grapes if the net sags in the wind or rain. Remember it’s not just grape eating birds that will flock to your vineyard but also birds in search of the insects that they might find there, so keeping your grapes insect free will also help to keep away the birds.

Other ideas include visual repellants, such as artificial hawks, scarecrows and shiny aluminum pie pans but none of these protect your vineyard as well as a physical barrier.

For deer and other grazers, the best protection is the use of odor repellents. Deer will graze on the vines themselves, the leaves and the grapes. They can devastate your crop if they are present in the area where you live. Hunting stores may be able to supply coyote scented products (coyotes hunt deer). Human scented products are also effective.

Once your vineyard is underway, keep your eyes open and your nose to the ground to spot unwanted pests and deal with them immediately to protect your grape crop.

Mark Pollack is a grape growing expert. For more great tips on how to control pests in vineyard grapes and other grape growing information, visit http://www.bestwinegrowingsecrets.com.

Vineyard Pest Control-Are Pests hurting your Vines

There are many categories of pests that may put your grapevine in risk : disease, insects, birds and deer. Amongst the most usual sicknesses influencing vines are black rot, mildew, phomopsis cane, leaf spot, and fungus. The most repeated signs of these common grapevine illnesses are leaf discoloration, fruit decay or a film of slime covering the leaves. In the case your grapevine comes down with any of these, or other, diseases, a fungicide can be used to mend the issue. Insects:Insects can be another problem influencing your grapevine. However, vines can endure a whole lot of insect damage and there’s infrequently times you’ll need to do something to regulate this type of pest. Some of the most typical insects that will jeopardise your vine are:Birds:Birds are doubtless, one of the most damaging pests that your grapevine will encounter. Some folks find relief by installing a net over their grapevines, establishing a physical barrier between the birds and the fruit. Nevertheless, this net must be removed during the winter months to stop topping over the plants. Another option to regulate a bird problem in your grapevine is to use visible repellents to guide the birds away from the vineyard. The most popular visual repellents employed by grape growers are aluminum plates, faux hawks, owls or snakes. Deer:An extra kind of pest that is less common to encounter is deer. to stop this problem, many growers effectively use odor repellants -such as soap, coyote, human or dog hair- to drive the deer away. Given all the tough work that will go to growing your vine, keeping pests away must be one of your top concerns. If you identify the issues that can have an effect on your grapevine and do something to prevent, the growing process should be both productive and rewarding. .

Pierre Duponte is a grape growing expert. For more great tips on
Vineyard Pest Control and how to make wine visit http://www.grapegrowingwinemakingtips.com/.